The Met Gala 2025 was held on May 5 and highlighted Black dandyism. Many A-list celebrities attended as co-chairs, such as actor Colman Domingo, rapper A$AP Rocky, F1 driver Lewis Hamilton, and Creative Director of Louis Vuitton Pharrell Williams. The event was hosted by Anna Wintour, who has been the lead chair of the Met Gala since 1995, and transformed it into one of the most high-profile fashion events in the world.
Black dandyism is a cultural practice with centuries worth of history. The term “dandy” is now used to highlight a man who takes an extraordinary investment in his appearance. Originating in 18th century London, wealthy slave owners would dress up their slaves like an accessory to highlight their wealth. This practice was also used to perceive black servants as exotic to fit the European “orientalist” stereotype. This was demonstrated in a painting of George Washington and his enslaved valet, who was depicted wearing a turban.
Black activists reclaimed this by using their clothes as a rebellion and an expression to make their own place in society. It was a method of significant personal expression and it broke barriers.
A prominent example of this was during the 19th century with abolitionist Frederick Douglass, the most photographed man. Despite growing up as a slave, Douglass became known for his prominent black dandy. In every photo he wore a suit and tie. Douglass used his style to fight common racial stereotypes, dressing to show he was intelligent and dignified.
Moving towards the early to mid 20th century during the Harlem renaissance, individuals like Duke Ellington and Cab Calloway use their tailored suits and slicked hair as a symbolic Armor to contradict racial stereotypes, while asserting their artistic identity.
During this same era, the zoot suit also emerged as a popular symbol of black resourcefulness. It was commonly identified as an oversized, mismatched suit. The pants were commonly tailored locally to fit big and flowy, so men could dance.
A more recent example of Black dandyism is A$AP Rocky. Born Rakim Mayer, A$AP’s style is a mix of high fashion with streetwear. He is the perfect example of a dandy, with his fearless and intentional approach to fashion.
Without the works of Willam Lee, Fredrick Douglass, Duke Ellington, Cab Calloway and more men like them, the idea of Black personal expression through fashion would not have garnered more attention. The “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style At the MET” exhibit beautifully highlights this history, as well as showing pieces from black fashion designers such as Grace Wales Bonner, Dapper Dan, Tremaine Emory and many more.
The exhibit is open until October 26 and is free with your museum admission.
